T-rev's Blog

45 2014-12-20 13:01 Best Windows 8 keyboard shortcuts

The most useful Windows 8.1 desktop keyboard shortcuts for me are Winkey+X and Winkey+B

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Winkey + B activates the taskBar. Alternatively, you can first activate the Desktop, which can be done using Winkey + D (this option will also minimize all windows), and then Tab through the areas listed below to the part of the taskbar you want.

Winkey + B first activates the system tray aka notification area.
From there you can tab through in this order:
1. the show/peak at desktop button (lower right corner of taskbar)
2. the Desktop (the desktop will be active whether or not it's visible)
3. the Start Button (hit enter for the start screen, but the start menu cannot be opened by the normal keyboard right-click equivalents of context menu "app" key or shift+F10; you must use winkey+X to access the start menu via keyboard)
4. the taskbar application icons area
5a. keyboard-accessible taskbar toolbars, if any are enabled
5b. back to the system tray again, etc.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Winkey + X opens the Windows 8.1 miniature start menu, which could also be accessed by right-clicking the "start button" (windows icon at top left of the taskbar, i.e usually the bottom left of screen.

After opening the start menu, you can navigate it with arrow keys or with shortcut keys (in parentheses below). It offers quick access to:
(F) Programs and Features
(B) Mobility Features
(O) Power Options
(V) Event Viewer
(Y) System
(M) Device Manager
(W) Network Connections
(K) Disk Management
(G) Computer Management
(C) Command Prompt (can be replaced by Powershell in taskbar
"Navigation" options)
(A) Command Prompt (Admin) (can be replaced by Powershell in taskbar
"Navigation" options)

(T) Task Manager
(P) Control Panel
(E) File Explorer
(S) Search
(R) Run
(U) Shut down or sign out
(I) Sign out
(H) Hibernate
(U) Shut down
(R) Restart
(D) Desktop

44 2014-08-12 15:29 Robocopy script problem with flaky NIC

I just encountered a crazy data loss problem that had me mystified and questioning my core computing beliefs. Some of my recently modified or recently created files were being wiped to zero file size.

Specifically, the affected filename was all that remained, with a last-modified date more recent than when I had actually last modified the file. Some of my important records were being wiped out.

I have multiple copies of backups on different servers, but my strategy is mostly geared toward protecting against disk crashes or corruption, and I wasn't maintaining any file version history. Thus, if I didn't notice instances of the zero-file-size problem in time, the "newer" empty file could propagate through my backup copies, with the empty file being written over the other backup copies of the file.

I'm now pretty sure I've figured out the problem. It's a combination of a flaky gigabit ethernet port in my (9-month-old) Toshiba laptop and the structure of one of my backup scripts, which runs robocopy first in one direction and then in the other.

The flaky connection would cause the first robocopy call to fail in mid-stride. The first robocopy call at this point had already created a placeholder filename in the destination location, with the timestamp set (meant to be temporarily) to current time, but had not copied the data and actual timestamp. Subsequent to this, the second robocopy call then copies the empty placeholder back, over-writing the data in what should have been the source file!

Obviously I need to implement version history backup.

Another measure I've now taken is telling robocopy to ignore files of zero size. I added the option /MIN:1, which will exclude files smaller than 1 byte. The only (minor) downside of this is that I have some information contained in filenames of intentionally empty files, but I can get around that by giving those files some trivial content.

43 2014-01-13 13:41 Fix Samba and Windows Vista/7/8

Not sure why I didn't save this when I set up Win 7 a couple years ago. Setting up Win 8 now it wouldn't connect to shares on my NAS, and I had to search again for the setting to fix it. And the answer was a needle in a haystack of search results:

From: http://arouter.blogspot.com/2011/07/samba-file-server-on-dd-wrt.html:

When accessing Samba from a Windows Vista/7 machine, the password will
always be rejected regardless whatever you input. That's because the
Samba we used here does not support the new password authorization
scheme in Windows.

To fix:
Run secpol.msc Go to: Local Policies -> Security Options
Find "Network Security: LAN Manager authentication level" and change
setting from "Send NTLMv2 response only" to "Send LM & NTLM - use
NTLMv2 session security if negotiated"

Some Windows versions may not have secpol.msc, in this case, save
these 3 lines below to file sambafix.reg and run it:

Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
Reboot the Windows to make the change take effect.

41 2013-03-29 04:50 How to set up your router behind an AT&T gateway

I'm trying out AT&T "U-verse". They force you to use their "Gateway" device, which is a combination DSL modem/NAT router/ethernet switch/Wireless AP. (Mine is a Motorola NVG510. The WAP seems to be a 2.4 GHz -bgn.) This is an issue for me because I have already have a (much better) router with several port-forwarding and iptables firewall rules, dynamic DNS, etc., and I had no desire to mess with my setup. I just wanted an internet connection for my existing LAN.

I was planning just to put my router in a DMZ, and a couple google probes into the topic turned up not much beyond some forum posts suggesting the same. Browsing through the router's config options, it wasn't readily apparent on the "NAT/gaming" page how to enable a DMZ, but I never had to try, because fortunately the next page was promisingly titled "IP Passthrough". The help in the margin said: "Passthrough: Allows the device's public IP address to be assigned to a single LAN client." Which is exactly what I wanted.

What I did:

1. disable the gateway's wifi
(Home Network -> Wireless)

2. disable the gateway's IPV6
(Home Network -> Configure)

3. [if necessary] change the gateway's LAN subnet to be separate from you existing LAN.
(Home Network -> Subnets & DHCP: in "Device IPv4 Address" and "DHCPv4 Start Address" and "DHCPv4 End Address" change .1. to .x. where x is your favorite number from 0 to 254)
Note: I first tried to use a 10.x.x.x subnet but it was disallowed.

4. enable Pass-Through
(Firewall -> IP Passthrough: Allocation Mode "Passthrough"; Passthrough mode "dynamic")

5. connect existing router's WAN port to one of the Gateway's LAN ports

6. unplug the power from everything for a few seconds

Everything worked immediately. I didn't change a single thing in my existing setup. I may still configure some static DNS servers, as DNS is currently being proxied through the Gateway, but it seems to be working well enough so far.

40 2012-03-10 00:13 Mystery Remote Desktop Problem

Recently I started having a strange problem with Windows 7 Remote Desktop (RDP). It always worked flawlessly before. The past couple weeks it would sometimes work, sometimes not. When it didn't work, it didn't throw out any kind of error message. It wouldn't even get to the authentication screen. The remote desktop client window would just silently close a moment after it appeared. The app on my phone would say "session terminated".

Did a little experimenting trying to narrow down what conditions corresponded to this so as to get at the cause of the problem, but it seemed almost random. So I decided to peruse the related registry entries with an eye for anything promising. Found it pretty quickly.

HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Terminal Server\ConnectionHandler

Within this were a few numerically named sub-keys, each of which contained a DWord named "fAcceptConnection". All but one had a value of 1. I changed the one that was 0 to 1, and I believe my problem is fixed, except for figuring out how it got set to 0 in the first place and whether it's going to get reset again (and how often)...

UPDATE: Unfortunately I have to report that the above fix did not continue to work, nor have I found a successful fix. It seems to be a security/certificate related problem...

39 2011-12-10 22:30 Fixing a Kenmore front-loader that won't spin

Had a problem with a Kenmore 417-44252500 front-loading washing machine (made by Frigidaire apparently). During spin cycle the drain pump was working, but there was no high speed spin.

Google easily found lots of people with the same problem, but ascertaining the solution was a little harder, finding manufacturer's documentation harder still. I spent enough time online over this to be inspired to type it up into the page I wish I could have found. Maybe it will be of use to someone else.

I managed to track down JPEGs of the Tech Data Sheet, which I've put in PDF here:
Kenmore 417-44252500 Tech Data Sheet
That should have been all I needed to track down the solution, but the plot thickens...

Ran diagnostics as directed in the data sheet. Everything worked including fast spin. (Fast spin only worked in diagnostics.) Checked the error code, got E47 which is "Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open during spin, refer to Test (9)." Performed the test, which consists of measuring the resistance of the PTC in the door latch. It was ~1500 Ohms, indicating a defective control board according to the data sheet (an open or shorted circuit would have indicated the door latch switch was defective).

However, after some Googling, I couldn't find anyone online for whom replacing the control board fixed the problem! I found that with these symptoms (high spin working only in diagnostic mode) it's "almost always" the door latch but supposedly still could be the (motor) control board (part # 134409900). Yet I found not a single actual report of it's having been the control board.

So with the Tech Data Sheet clearly saying one thing but no evidence to be found online in support, I remained hesitant until I found this post (thanks!) where even after passing the 1500 Ohm test, the fix still involved replacing the door lock assembly.

I got a door latch switch (part # 131763202) that was in stock nearby, and it worked.

By the way, more useful info (found on youtube) in case "you may know someone in a similar situation, or you may be in a similar situation and if you're in a situation like that..."

To remove the door latch, you don't even have to move the washer. Use a pair of needle-nose plyers to remove the spring/wire band that holds the door gasket in place, pull a bit of the gasket out of the way near the latch, remove the two screws (save them, they're not included with the replacement part), and unplug the three wiring connectors. Put it back together in reverse order (except no need for the pliers).

And, paraphrased from the tech data sheet:

To check last error code without entering diagnostic mode, turn on the machine by pushing any button, wait 5 seconds, press and hold simultaneously both Start and Pause/Cancel. After a few seconds, last error code will be signalled until buttons are released. Note that signalling of the first digit (by the Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin LEDs and audible beep) may overlap the signalling of the second digit (by the Start LED).

To enter Diagnostic mode, turn knob to Drain/Spin, then press Pause/Cancel to turn off the LEDs, then within 5 seconds press and hold simultaneously both the Option and Pause/Cancel buttons until the LEDs begin sequentially chasing.
In diagnostic mode, when knob is set to:
...Drain/Spin, LEDs chase sequentially, and pressing a button will light all LEDs in that cluster
…Rinse/Spin, hot water should enter through detergent compartment
…Soak, cold water should enter the bleach compartment
…Wool, cold water should enter the softner compartment
…Sport, door should lock
…Heavy, door should unlock
…Normal, washer should fill and tumble
…PermPress, washer should fill and spin (leak test)
…Quick, door lock, drain pump and high speed spin (DANGER, door only remains locked in this mode of diagnostics, and may be opened while drum is still spinning after performing this diagnostic!)
…Delicate, last error code will be signalled

38 2011-12-02 12:34 Wake-on-LAN Dell Dimension 8300 PCI Card

I've long been using WOL (Wake-on-LAN) with my Dimension 8300's integrated fast ethernet (100 Mb/s) adapter. I was using BIOS version A01, and WOL worked fine with no special BIOS settings.

Aside: I used to have a gigabit PCI card, but needed the PCI slot for something else and, besides, hadn't upgraded the rest of my network to gigabit and thus had not much use for it (other than when I'd used two NICs at the same time occasionally, for ICS (Internet Connection Sharing) or for configuring network hardware).

Anyway, I've upgraded to gigabit and WOL didn't work with my WOL-capable PCI NIC. It seemed the motherboard was capable, as my switch still showed the NIC connected at 100 Mbps with the computer shut down (though no LEDs lit on the NIC).

Upgrading BIOS to the final version A07 (10/1/2004) didn't fix WOL (although, by the way, it did seem to fix the problem of USB keyboard working in GRUB only from reboot and not from cold startup).

The following, however, worked like a charm. First my notes:

from http://telement.wordpress.com/2010/06/14/dell-dimension-8300-wake-on-lan/

Dell Dimension 8300 wake on LAN
2010 JUNE 14, 15:27 +8
How to allow the Dell 8300 to power up from hibernate and power off mode when receiving a Magic Packet via the network card, in Windows XP Pro SP3.
Dell Dimension 8300, BIOS A07 (circa 2003/2004)
on board Intel PRO/100 VE Network Card
*Disclaimer: The following instructions are provided without any warranty. Please do it at your own risk. The writer is merely sharing what worked for him, and your milage may vary.
To allow the 8300 to wake up from a hibernate (S4) or power off (S5) state, check the following:
  • Search for DCCU (Dell Client Configuration Utility) at Dell - http://support.dell.com/ (The DCCU version tested here was 3.1)
  • Install and run it in Windows XP, set the following:
    WakeupOnLAN 6 = Enabled for all NICs
    *Recommended to change this item alone only. Leave the other settings untouched to prevent accidentally messing up your BIOS. This item is DISABLED by default, and it is NOT visible in the 8300 BIOS.
  • If you do an Inventory reading (using the DCCU) of your 8300 BIOS, theWakeupOnLANMethod should be 3 (Magic Packet), and is unchangable (Just have a look to confirm).
  • After setting the above WakeupOnLAN value 6, create the SETTING executable with the DCCU. Then run it. It will update your BIOS on-the-fly in XP.
  • Perform a reboot after this. Go into BIOS.
  • Check to ensure in BIOS > Power Management > Low Power Mode is DISABLED. (The BIOS help for this item says if left enabled, it will not power up from hibernate or off). Save BIOS settings and exit.
  • Boot into Windows XP.
  • In your Network Card Properties, Power Management tab, check Allow this device to bring the computer out of standby. Click OK to close the windows.
  • You’re done. Put it into hibernate or shutdown, and the LAN lights should be still on (so will your network router’s indicator lights for the PC).
  • Test it using another PC, with Magic Packet tools from http://www.depicus.com (Great Site!)

Extra Titbits
The 8300 have a soft power function. Meaning when in a power off mode (S5), it can be started by software.
Try this little fun exercise:
  • Open up Start > Program > Accesories > System Tools > Scheduled Tasks, set it to run theCalculator program, five minutes from your current time.
  • In the SETTINGS tab, tick the box marked Wake the computer to run this task.
  • Click OK and shutdown your PC.
  • Sit back and enjoy seeing your 8300 come alive in 5 minutes, all by itself. Pure magic!

33 2009-11-20 17:05 Seven Hills Homeless Center info

In the interest of making some useful information available to an internet search, here are three facts about the Seven Hills Homeless Center in Fayetteville:

 • The Day Center office phone number is (479) 251-7776.
 • The Day Center's hours are Monday to Thursday 8:00am-4:30pm, and Friday 8:00am-2:00pm. (The weekday times currently listed on www.sevenhillscenter.org are incorrect.) Also the first and third Saturday of each month 8:00am-1:00pm.
 • The Day Center—although its address is on 6th Street (a.k.a. MLK Jr. Blvd)—is not actually located on 6th Street but rather is behind the Suds car wash (which is next to the church building that used to house Seven Hills).

30 2008-08-21 08:04 Remote Desktop Hints

Here's something I've been meaning to mention for quite a while. It's a bit behind the times, but still probably useful news to a lot of people who have a home network of more than one computer running Microsoft Windows. Windows XP and Vista have a built-in remote control program that lets you sit at one computer and login to another computer. It's aptly named "Remote Desktop Connection", but henceforth I'll refer to it as Remote Desktop or just RD.

Note: the computer to be remotely accessed is the "host"; the computer you're sitting at is the "client". The host computer must be running XP Professional or Vista at least Business edition. XP Home and Vista Home and Starter editions cannot host Remote Desktop. But the client software is built into XP or Vista, and client software can be installed on older versions of Windows or even other operating systems.

Another option, which I won't detail, allows you to set up the host to be accessed from any computer via Internet Explorer, without client software. Furthermore, you can use Remote Desktop over the internet, though I won't go into the details of that either. Mostly I have some tips for how to use it after it's connected. By the way, I use Windows XP, and I'm not sure all the details are exactly the same for Vista.

Note that there are other programs that allow similar remote access, but Remote Desktop is already included with Windows.

Getting Connected

As for the basics of getting connected, first you have to set up the host computer. Go to System Properties (either Winkey-Break or Winkey-Pause, depending on your keyboard, or just right click My Computer and select Properties), go to the "Remote" tab, and check "Allow users to connect remotely to this computer". Note the "Full computer name", which you'll need later.

Now click the "Select Remote Users" button. You will have to login using a username and password of a user on the host computer. Here is where you select which users will have remote access. By default, all Administrator accounts automatically have access so you probably don't have to do anything. If you want to give access to any non-administrator accounts, click the "Add" button, then the "Advanced" button, then the "Find Now" button, then select the user from the list and hit, OK, OK, OK.

If you have a firewall on the host computer, you'll have to make sure it's set to allow connections from the client computer you'll be using. (That would probably mean creating a range of privileged local IP addresses.)

Now you're ready to connect. Go to the client computer. Remote Desktop Connection should by default be in your Start menu under, I think, All Programs, Accessories, Communications. Alternately, if you can't find the shortcut, you can just hit Winkey-R (for Run program), then type "mstsc" (for MicroSoft Terminal ServiCes) and hit Enter.

Type the (NetBIOS host) "full computer name" from above or the IP address of the host Computer and click connect. Log in with the appropriate username and password. You'll now be controlling the remote host computer from your local monitor, keyboard and mouse.

Note: before connecting, you can change other options if you choose. One thing you can do is save configurations so you can quickly replicate them again later, to connect to a particular user account on a particular computer with particular settings for sound and graphics. You could even put shortcuts to these .rdp files in your start menu.


By default, Remote Desktop will be full-screen. You won't see the Start button and taskbar for your local computer session, just the ones for the remote host computer. Most of the familiar keyboard shortcuts will now be sent to the host computer. For example, Alt-Tab will switch between programs on the host. Alt-F4 will close a window on the host.

It's so much like sitting at the other computer that if you're not careful, you could forget that you're in a Remote Desktop session and things could get confusing. That's why there's a Remote Desktop "tab" at the top center of the screen with the name of the host computer. At the right side of that tab are familiar-looking minimize, restore, and close buttons, all of which do what you'd expect. If you are done working on the remote computer, click that close button, which will just disconnect your remote session, leaving all your programs running until the next time you login. Or you can minimize or restore down the Remote Desktop window so that you can switch between controlling the local and remote computers.

Also, at the left side of the RD tab, there's a thumbtack button which lets you "unpin" the RD tab from the screen, in which case it will "auto-hide", i.e. it will be visible only if you put your mouse pointer up there (thus making it even more likely you'll forget that you're in a RD window). The RD tab is pretty unobtrusive, so there's usually no reason to unpin it. You'd need to if you really had to see or click on something in that small area that's otherwise hidden by the RD tab. (Or, if you open a RD session B from within a RD session A and need a way to escape back to RD session A without escaping all the way back to your local console session, but that's beyond the scope of this post...)

If instead of minimizing you restore the RD window, it will show up as a window on your local computer session. You won't be able to see the whole desktop of the remote computer without scrolling (unless you changed the window size in the options before connecting).

Keyboard Shortcuts

While full screen, most Windows keyboard shortcuts will be sent to the remote computer. While the RD window is NOT full screened, Windows keyboard shortcuts go to the local computer. There are some special Remote Desktop keyboard shortcuts.

When RD window is not full screen:

Whether or not RD is full screen:

Shutting Down

One other difference between a local session and a remote session is the Logoff and Shutdown options. For some reason, they made it hard to figure out how to Turn Off the computer remotely (presumably to help you avoid doing it accidentally, especially since you may not be able to turn it back on if it really is "remote") and even harder to hibernate. In the Start Menu of a RD session, you don't even have a "Turn Off" option. What if you want to power down the host computer remotely? One way is to use the Ctrl-Alt-End shortcut to open Task Manager and then use its "Shut Down" menu.

That will let you Turn Off the computer, but the Hibernate option is inexplicably grayed out. If you want to hibernate, select the "Desktop" (I just hit Winkey-D for Desktop. Winkey-M for Minimize All does the same thing.) and press Alt-F4. This brings up the same menu as when you click Start and then "Turn Off" in a non-remote session. To hibernate, just hit the letter H. (The hibernate option is always hidden; to use it with a mouse you have to hold down Shift, which makes the Stand By option change to Hibernate.) Again, to hibernate it's Winkey-D, Alt-F4, H.

Waking Up

Of course, even more handy, and making Remote Desktop much more usable and useful, is the ability to wake up the host computer remotely. If it's connected by an ethernet cable, this is probably possible using Wake On LAN (WOL for short. LAN stands for Local Area Network.) Not all ethernet adapters and motherboards support WOL, but nowadays most do.

To enable Wake On LAN, open System Properties again (Winkey-Pause or Winkey-Break), go to the Hardware tab, and click the Device Manger button. Expand Network Adapters in the tree, select your Ethernet adapter, and hit Alt-Enter (for properties. This works throughout Windows and is the keyboard equivalent of Right-Click -> Properties). Go to the Power Management tab and check both "Allow this device to bring the computer out of standby" and "Only allow management stations to bring the computer out of standby". This tells Windows to enable WOL from this adapter.

You may also need to go to the hardware-specific settings in the Advanced tab and enable options that sound appropriate. (On my laptop I have a Realtek adapter with "Wake-On-Lan After Shutdown" and "WakeUp on ARP/PING" both enabled. I have "WakeUp on Link Change" and "WakeUp using APM Mode" disabled.)

Finally, you need a way to send the wake-up call. Some routers will do this, one advantage of which is that you could do it from outside your local network, via the internet, even if no computers on your LAN were turned on. If you use DD-WRT firmware, it's under Administration -> WOL.

Otherwise, you can use this free program. Put in the hardware MAC address (six two-digit hexadecimal numbers, something like 00-35-E2-CA-5E-23) of the ethernet adapter on the computer you want to wake up, and type "" for both Internet Address and Subnet Mask. (It'll actually broadcast the "magic packet" wake-up call to, which goes to every device on the network.) Then click the "Wake Me Up" button and the remote computer should boot up. (The port number doesn't matter for WOL within a LAN.)

Simultaneous Sessions

One thing about Remote Desktop is that if someone is already logged into the host computer (locally or via RD), they will be disconnected and sent back to the "Welcome" login screen when you connect. And if they log back in (or if anybody logs in) while you're connected, you'll get disconnected. Here's where the best tip of all comes in.

The funny thing is that Windows has built-in the ability to handle multiple users simultaneously logged in. Apparently someone changed their mind at some point and decided to disable the feature, but it can be re-enabled with this fix. Say your wife is using the desktop computer and you've got the laptop but you need access to a file or program on the desktop. With multiple concurrent sessions, you can just log in to the desktop (using a different user account than your wife is using) via Remote Desktop. You don't have to wait or interrupt the wife. Note you can't log in using the same username and password as the wife without disconnecting her. Only one session per user account is allowed, so you'll need to have multiple user accounts set up.

29 2008-08-14 06:31 how to sync the sync

more about the samsung "sync" flip-phone. (by the way, what a horrible name! how on earth are you supposed to google "sync" and find anything relevant? it does help to know that the model number is SGH-A707.)

if you save your phone number contacts to your SIM card it's easy to transfer them to another phone. it also gives you a backup copy in case the phone breaks. but if the phone gets lost, so does the SIM card. if those phone numbers are valuable to you, or if not having to re-enter them all into a new phone with your thumbs, then you should back them up to a computer.

with the free download "Samsung PC Studio 3" you can make a backup copy of your contacts via a bluetooth or usb connection. i don't know which other samsung phone models it works with, but it does work with the A707 "sync". you can also sync those contacts back to a phone.

one more advantage is that if you want to make many changes to your contacts, e.g. adding or changing area codes, deleting duplicates, etc. it might be a lot easier to do on a computer than on your phone. i cleaned up my contact list using excel.

run PC Studio 3, then select "PC Sync". under options, you can choose whether to sync from phone to PC, PC to phone, or both. you can also choose whether to use microsoft outlook contacts or a windows address book (.wab) file. i used the .wab file. the .wab option is listed as "Microsoft Outlook Express (Windows Address Book)".

you can just use the default file, but i preferred to create one specifically for phone contacts. to make a new .wab file, run "address book" from the start menu, then export to a new .wab file in the location of your choice. if there were any existing contact entries you can delete them from your new wab file. then, in PC Sync options, click "Setting" to select your empty .wab file as the sync target.

anyway, export contacts is pretty straightforward, but there was one little quirk i had to figure out for importing contacts from computer to phone. it doesn't work quite the way it ought to. the quirk and the workaround described below are the really useful information in this post.

quirk: to import from pc to phone, contacts have to have a "last name" and/or "first name" field or they won't be imported. but when you export from phone to pc, contacts do not have either of those data fields; they only have a single combined field called "name". therefore, the file you export to PC cannot be imported back to the phone!

the easy fix is to open the .wab file, export it as a text (.csv - comma separated values) file, and then delete all the contacts in the .wab. then, in the process of reimporting the .csv file back into the .wab, remap the "Name" field to "First Name". (when you do this import from text file, it will be obvious how to do the remapping. when the "change mapping" button shows up, just select the source field you want to remap, click the "change mapping" button, and select the desired destination field.) now you have a .wab file that can sync back to the A707 sync phone.

if you want, before that last step, you can manipulate the .csv file in any way you choose. another note, if you want names to be sorted by last name, use outlook instead of a .wab file. PC Sync will use outlook's "File As" values, i.e. they could be "Doe, John" instead of "John Doe".